On our first full day on the Big Island of Hawaii, we set out to explore the western side of the island. After driving around, we happen to stumble upon signs pointing towards the “Painted Church.” After having nothing particular on our agenda, we decided to see where the road would take us.

After meandering through some residential areas, we found the church steep atop a hill overlooking Kealakekua Bay, in the Kona coffee region of the Big Island. The grounds were very rustic, yet tropical.

The church was constructed by Father John Velghe in 1899. “Without any professional training and using house paint on ordinary wood he beautified the church with his paintings. In those days few Hawaiians could read and so he taught with pictures-most successfully. He spent over four years with saw and brush to complete the structure and was then recalled to Belgium where he died in 1939.” [The Painted Church]

Walking through the cemetery was not only serene and tranquil due to the sheer beauty of the surroundings, but also quite telling of the history that resided on the hillside.

Yes, that is a cat resting on the alter.

Once inside, we quickly realized the true meaning of the Painted Church. Every square inch of the inside was intricately detailed with religious scenes and symbolism seen right out of the historic Vatican.

The Hardwriting on the Wall at the Feast of King Belshazzar.

On the wall is written in Hawaiian, “Ua Emi Loa Oe Ua Pau Kou Aupuni / Make No Ka Pono” translated, “You are found wanting. Your kingdom ceases. Should die.”

Temptation of Jesus: The devil is being cast down along with a crown, a scepter and bags of money.

Appearance of the Cross to St. Francis

Cain & Abel (and Eve Trying to Revive Him)

Symbolic picture of a good death with Rays of Hope shining in the dark cell.

The depiction of Hell above is in the poorest shape of all the murals due to sun fading.

The stop at the Painted Church was a great kickoff to our exploration of the Big Island. As we were leaving, some young boys walked onto the site and were climbing some of the trees to get at some apples (sound familiar Eve?). As I pondered what a Hawaiian apple tasted like, the boys asked if I wanted one and threw one to me.

I was tempted and took a bite of the apple without even thinking of the symbolism until later. The apple was incredibly sweet, juicy, and delicious, which started to really connect us with the Hawaiian culture and heritage.

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Resources:
www.thepaintedchurch.org

After visiting Kahaluu Beach Park, we headed further down the coast to see what we could find. After following some road signs, we happen to come upon Kealakekua Bay. The story goes that Captain James Cook, of British decent, was the first European to visit the Hawaiian Islands on January 19, 1778.

Mr. Cook and his crew were thought to be a deity (associated with the God Lono) by the Hawaiian people. During their visit in 1779, one of Captain Cook’s crew members, William Watman, had a stroke and died. The grave site we visited had a plaque with the inscription “In this Heiau, January 28, 1779, Captain James Cook R.N. read the English burial service over William Watman, Seaman. The first recorded Christian Service in the Hawaiian Islands. Erected by the Kona Civic Club, 1928.”

When Captain James Cook and his crew set sail several months later in February, they were met with rough seas and suffered from a broken mast. Upon returning to Kealakekua Bay, the Hawaiian people were in the midst of war season (God Ku). Relations quickly soured and the Hawaiian people eventually killed Captain James Cook over a confrontation of boat theft.

During our visit, we saw the Hikiau Heiau, which is a burial temple of the ancient Hawaiian people. There, unfortunately, was not a lot to view or learn from the site.

As was typical for anywhere you visit in Hawaii, the water, just a couple feet away from the historic sites was the ocean. The water surges were rough, and the beach made of rounded, lava boulders. We did not venture anywhere near the water, especially with the boys, but the views were terrific.

It is said that the snorkeling and reefs at Kealakekua Bay are spectacular, yet I am not sure even in my younger days if I would have ventured out into the water with the waves that high.

What I really tried to capture in the video was the remarkable popping sound the water made rushing in and out of the lava rocks. Listen carefully, and you should hear the tranquil sound unlike anything I had ever heard before at a beach.

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